The Top 10 Shoes at Pitti Uomo’s Spring 2022 Edition
Pitti Uomo made its triumphant return to a standalone in-person trade fair this week.
The energy was high as many international buyers and press were happy to be back at what was many of their first time back at the show since the on-set of the pandemic. During the show, which was held inside the city’s Fortezza da Basso, brands from all over the world, including Brunello Cucinelli, Harrys London, Paraboot, Plus and many more, showcased their spring/summer 2023 footwear collections. Sneakers prevailed as the number one offering at this season’s show, but there was also a solid range of sandals and dress-casual styles.
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Here are the top 10 shoes from Pitti Uomo 102.
1. Brunello Cucinelli’s suede tassel loafersCredit: Stephen Garner / FN
Stephen Garner / FN
After several years of growing and placing emphasis on its footwear collection, Brunello Cucinelli is finding success in the category. Customers are gravitating to the label’s offering of casual-meets-dress shoes, like these tassel loafers in chocolate brown suede. Much like its ready-to-wear, these shoes can be dressed down on the weekend or worn to a cocktail party or the office.
2. Contre-Allée woven raffia loafersCredit: Stephen Garner / FN
Stephen Garner / FN
This French label founded in 2017 specializes in producing only unisex raffia shoes with materials sourced from Madagascar. Each pair of shoes takes a full day of hand weaving in the brand’s Moroccan factory. The label offers slip-on mules, sandals, and loafers in a wide range of colors, details, and styles. Retails range from 220 to 300 euros.
3. Diadora x Pierre-Louis Mascia mixed-media sneakersCredit: Stephen Garner / FN
Stephen Garner / FN
Pierre-Louis Mascia gave a sneak peek at its new collaboration with Diadora, slated to drop in 2023. The two teamed up on one signature Diadora B560 style, which featured some of French brand’s signature fabrics and prints. The French fashion brand said this is its first sneaker collaboration, and it pairs with its new Vizir sportswear capsule.
Story continues
4. Harrys London casual-dress lace-upsCredit: Stephen Garner / FN
Stephen Garner / FN
Harrys of London is under construction. The UK-based footwear and accessories brand is debuting a new look, refined styles, and updated logo – without the “of”. Officially launching later this year, the brand will now be known as Harrys London and will feature a few of its best-selling styles along with a new range of more contemporary styles developed by its newly appointed creative director. The company, which is still owned by American real estate and movie billionaire Charles Cohen, has added a few more sneaker styles and a range of sandals, loafers and espadrilles for spring/summer 2023. These dress casual wallabee style come at a more elevated price point, featuring a Vibram sole and beautiful suedes and leathers.
5. Fessura chunky sneakersCredit: Stephen Garner / FN
Stephen Garner / FN
Originally founded in the late 1990s, Fessura once had a strong presence in the U.S. with retail partners like Barneys New York. Now, the footwear brand is focusing on sneakers with a sportier twist. This model is part of a new collaboration the Italian company has debuting next spring with Fiat.
6. Flower Mountain x Universal Works slip-on sneaker
Credit: Stephen Garner / FN
Stephen Garner / FN
This Japanese brand’s full range of hiking and outdoor-inspired footwear began in 2015. Identified by its chunkier soles and flower details, this brand’s booth was one not to be missed, as it was non-stop during the show. These shoes showcased above are part of Flower Mountain’s upcoming spring 2023 collaboration with UK-based brand Universal Works. The collab features a range of apparel as well as multiple shoe styles including slip on sneakers, lace-ups and sandals.
7. Paraboot cut-out suede sandal
Credit: Stephen Garner / FN
Stephen Garner / FN
Paraboot really amped up its sandal and mule offering for spring 2023. The French brand is releasing this suede mule sandal next spring and buyers are already picking it up. Other popular models for next season are a pair of fisherman sandals as well as raffia “Wallabee” style shoes.
8. Plus transparent nylon sneaker
Plus's Club 01 sneaker, made of a transparent nylon and shown at Pitti Uomo's spring '23 season. - Credit: Stephen Garner / FN
Stephen Garner / FN
New for this season, Plus is using a transparent nylon on this sneaker’s upper and shoe laces. According to the company, the material works well for the spring/summer season as it allows more air to circulate in the sneaker. What makes this brand interesting, is that it makes every model, both footwear and clothing, as a blank white canvas. Each piece is then customized to meet the theme of the season, or retail partners can create custom shoes or jackets just for their store — a big draw for retailers in competing markets.
9. Scotch & Soda neon slide
Credit: Stephen Garner / FN
Stephen Garner / FN
Inspired by flowers and the colorful wonders of nature this season, Scotch & Soda’s sandal offering stood out as the highlight of its range for spring 2023. This slip on style in multi-color features a thick, grip sole and large adjustable staps — perfect for the beach.
10. Voile Blanche’s Club 01 sneaker
Credit: Stephen Garner / FN
Stephen Garner / FN
Born in 2004, this range of sneakers is inspired by the world of sailing. Made for both men and women, Voile Blanche’s Club 01 sneaker is constructed in technical fabric and suede, with contrasting details. These details include plastic eyelets, sporty strings, embossed logo, and an ultra light rubber running sole featuring a screen-printed logo.
Launch Gallery: All the Top Shoes at Pitti Uomo's Spring 2023 Edition
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2.The Best Hoka Running Shoes Combine Cushion and Performance
Editors’ Note: We reviewed this article on June 6, 2022, and still stand behind these expert recommendations. We’ll continue to evaluate this list on a monthly basis to make sure the models below represent the best Hoka running shoes available now.
Founded in 2009 by French trail runners Nicolas Mermoud and Jean-Luc Diard, Hoka began just as the minimalist shoe movement was reaching its peak. In spite (or because) of that trend, Hoka shoes offered the antithesis to those barefoot models: maximalist cushioning that cradled runners’ feet. Inspired by the smooth ride of mountain bikes and powder skis, Mermoud and Diard wanted to bring a similar “floating feel” to running. They initially made prototypes themselves and worked with a chemist at a Chinese shoe company to develop an entirely new kind of EVA foam that was soft and surprisingly lightweight—characteristics that are now hallmarks of Hoka kicks.
Best Hoka Running Shoes
The Expert: I became a runner in middle school and have covered running and outdoor gear for years, both on-staff at Runner’s World and as a freelance journalist. Running shoes is the category of gear I’ve written about the most, and I have firsthand experience with models from a range of brands. To write articles like this, I talk with brand reps about the company’s latest shoes and tech, consult RW tester feedback, and draw on my own experience with the running shoe industry. With direction from RW editors, I combine all that info to choose what shoes make it onto this page.
Early releases like the Mafate, Bondi, and Stinson ATR proved that the Hoka design philosophy had merit. These shoes provided enough cushioning to soften rough terrain and return energy but weren’t so heavy that they weighed runners down. The shoes caught on, and Hoka has expanded rapidly ever since. (And for any brand devotees who might be wondering, Hoka officially dropped the “One One” from its name in 2021.)
The Hoka Recipe
Mermoud and Diard developed their shoes around a few basic principles: adding more cushioning, using light materials, and creating a wide rocker midsole to preserve momentum and create a smoother ride. The shoes were initially marketed to trail runners, but the brand now makes road shoes and even track spikes.
Although some companies have forsaken EVA foam entirely in favor of newer formulations, Hoka has stuck with its proprietary EVA formulations. Our results from the RW Shoe Lab confirm that the brand’s EVA-rubber blend is more elastic (for better support and energy return) and more durable than traditional EVA. Hoka also uses various blends of compression-molded EVA (CMEVA) foam in its shoes. Some blends are formulated for low weight, whereas others are tuned for strong energy return. CMEVA is now found on several shoes across the lineup, including the Arahi and Speedgoat.
The Arahi’s J-Frame (the yellow portion of the outsole) adds more stability to counter overpronation.
Lakota Gambill
Other key Hoka design traits include the Meta-Rocker design and the Active Foot Frame, both of which have been in nearly all of the company’s shoes since its founding. Meta-Rocker is a combination of a low heel-toe drop and a rounded sole shape that complements your natural stride and helps propel you forward. The Active Foot Frame cradles the foot deeper inside the shoe’s midsole for more support as you run. Hoka likens the design to sitting in the secure, low bucket seat of a race car.
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A Few New Ingredients
In addition to those basic shoe design elements, Hoka has rolled out other new tech in recent years. ProFly is a dual-density cushioning system that combines soft foam in the heel with firmer foam in the forefoot, and it debuted on the Tracer and Clayton shoes in 2016. In fall 2020, Hoka pushed boundaries again when it released the goofy-looking TenNine. With its massive heel, this shoe was designed specifically for sprinting down steep hills—the extra foam soaks up shock, and the broad sole provides exceptional stability. Hoka has continued to experiment with extended heel designs: Another recent innovation is the asymmetrical SwallowTail heel that debuted on the Kawana (an earlier version debuted on the TenNine Hike). Essentially, it’s a wider crash pad with an asymmetrical beveled heel extending outward at the back of the shoe. The broad, flat geometry helps promote smoother landings and a more fluid stride.
Like many other brands, Hoka has also started putting carbon fiber plates in its shoes to give them a more responsive feel that’s ideal for faster paces and racing. You’ll find that tech in shoes like the Bondi X and Carbon X 3.
Profly foam balances shock absorption and energy return for a plush feel on landing and a snappier response at toe-off.
Lakota Gambill
A niche product with an eye-popping $250 price tag, the TenNine still earns high marks for originality.
Lakota Gambill
How We Evaluate and Test
Our team of more than 300 wear testers includes runners of all ages and speeds living both locally near our Pennsylvania headquarters and across the U.S. Between our testers and Runner’s World staff, we’ve run in nearly every single pair of Hokas below. We’ve consulted data from mechanical tests performed at our RW Shoe Lab for additional insight on the stability of Hoka’s J-Frame support system, the softness of ProFly foam, and the energy return of rocker-style midsoles. Keep scrolling for full reviews of the best road and trail options in Hoka’s current lineup.
Best Daily Trainer
CLIFTON 8
Weight: 8.9 oz (M), 7.2 oz (W)Drop: 5 mm
Clifton 8
The original Clifton is legendary among Hoka fans and marked a turning point for the brand—it proved that a shoe could provide maximum cushion without being clunky. The latest version continues that tradition and is designed as an everyday training shoe. It features a new EVA midsole compound that’s tuned for low weight and increased energy return for a peppy feel, plus an extended heel to soften impact forces. The Meta-Rocker sole promotes a smooth stride, and the mesh upper has been tweaked for improved breathability, too.
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Best for Tempo Runs
MACH 4
Weight: 8.6 oz (M), 7.1 oz (W)Drop: 5 mm
Mach 4
The Mach falls on the lighter and speedier end of Hoka’s lineup, and both our testers and RW staff raved about this latest version. It earned a spot on our best cushioned shoes list, and high praise from Runner’s World Deputy Editor Jeff Dengate, who jotted in his notes that the 4 is “the best Mach yet and perhaps the best current Hoka.” Like its predecessor, this version remains a great training companion, but now it feels fast enough to toe the start line completely on its own, too. The main highlights: A dual-density ProFly midsole and early-stage Meta-Rocker shape create a plush, propulsive ride, and a new upper offers a more secure fit. For everything from speedwork to longer-distance efforts, the Mach 4 is a strong contender.
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Most Cushioning
BONDI 7
Weight: 10.7 oz (M), 8.9 oz (W)Drop: 4 mm
Bondi 7
The Bondi is Hoka’s most cushioned road shoe, and it features a layer of EVA foam anchoring a downright beefy midsole. The latest version of the Bondi keeps the formula that has won this shoe such a devoted following: maximum cushioning for an ultra-plush ride. Like with previous versions, an open mesh upper increases breathability, and the Meta-Rocker sole helps you roll through your stride. Plus, the seventh iteration comes with a new memory foam collar for a better fit and feel around the ankle. Hoka also released the Bondi X, which provides a similar cushioned feel but includes an embedded carbon fiber plate for a snappier, speedier ride.
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Best Value
RINCON 3
Weight: 7.7 oz (M), 6.5 oz (W)Drop: 5 mm
Rincon 3
The Rincon debuted in July 2019 as a comfy, speed-oriented shoe with an attractive price point. The third iteration addresses the main gripes on the previous version—a narrow fit and poor breathability—with a new asymmetrical tongue, a wider toe box, and a vented mesh upper for a roomier, breezier feel. Additional outsole rubber on the heel and forefoot improve durability and traction, but otherwise the Rincon 3 continues to provide a sublime balance between low weight and soft-but-supportive cushioning. It’s an ideal pick for speed training (and runners on a budget).
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Most Stable
ARAHI 6
Weight: 9.3 oz (M), 7.6 oz (W)Drop: 5 mm
Arahi 6
Like the Gaviota, the Arahi combines stability features with cushioning, but it ups the ante with a more responsive ride at a lower weight. As with previous versions, the centerpiece of the shoe is the J-Frame embedded in the sole to counter overpronation, and it’s paired with bouncy, durable CMEVA cushioning for a responsive ride. Hoka trimmed some weight on the shoe thanks to a new mesh upper, and the tongue has extra cushioning for a more comfortable fit.
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Most Versatile
KAWANA
Weight: 10 oz (M), 8.4 oz (W)Drop: 5 mm
Kawana
The Kawana makes a great pick for runners who need a do-it-all pair of shoes: It’s a plush trainer that’s comfortable enough to wear all day. Hoka’s CMEVA foam absorbs impacts and offers good energy return, and the early-stage Meta-Rocker sole shape ensures smooth strides. The shoe also uses Hoka’s Active Foot Frame design to support your feet, and it features a new SwallowTail crash pad geometry in the heel—the wide, asymmetrical shape and beveled edge promotes even, fluid landings. We named it one of our favorite cushioned shoes of the year, and in the words of one tester, “it made running on roads feel effortless.”
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Best for Road-to-Trail
CHALLENGER ATR 6
Weight: 9.8 oz (M), 8.1 oz (W)Drop: 5 mm
Challenger ATR 6
Compared to the Zinal, the Challenger ATR offers a more balanced cushioning profile, which makes it a better option for general training—especially if you hit trails and pavement in equal measure. The firm EVA midsole provides some support for your feet, but it has enough give to soak up impact forces and uneven ground, too. The 4-millimeter lugs aren’t huge, but they provide consistent grip both on and off road. And testers appreciated the shoe’s more spacious fit at midfoot and in the toe box. Buy it in wide sizes for even more room.
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Best for Racing
CARBON X 3
Weight: 7.8 oz (M), 6.6 oz (W)Drop: 5 mm
Carbon X 3
Although the Carbon X started out as a bit of an oddity (it seemed to only work for runners who land at midfoot), the shoe has evolved into a competent endurance racer. The third iteration keeps the combo of a Meta-Rocker sole shape and an embedded carbon-fiber plate for a smooth, snappy ride, and the dual-density CMEVA foam creates a firm platform for efficient toe-offs. It now comes with a new knit upper that has been designed for an improved fit—a key feature for runners taking on longer races.
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Best for Long Trail Runs
SPEEDGOAT 5
Weight: 10.3 oz (M), 8.5 oz (W)Drop: 4 mm
Speedgoat 5
An homage to ultrarunner Karl “Speedgoat” Meltzer, this is Hoka’s flagship trail shoe, and it’s ideal for long jaunts off-pavement. Hoka gave the fifth version of this racy trail shoe a hefty update. The outsole is equipped with a new Vibram Megagrip lug pattern for improved traction on loose ground, and a beefed-up double-layer jacquard mesh upper provides added protection from debris. Hoka also swapped in a new CMEVA foam in the midsole, which helps save weight—the Speedgoat 5 is about half an ounce lighter than the Speedgoat 4.
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Best for Technical Trails
MAFATE SPEED 3
Weight: 11.1 oz (M), 9.5 oz (W)Drop: 4 mm
Mafate Speed 3
The Mafate Speed 3 is designed to take on technical trails with ease. The dual-density midsole softens impact forces but provides a firm response at toe-off, and the Vibram rubber outsole features 5-millimeter lugs for excellent grip across a variety of terrain. The mesh upper offers good breathability, and it comes with molded thermoplastic overlays to protect your feet from debris and add some support, too.
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Michael Charboneau Michael is a freelance writer with years of experience covering gear and the outdoors for Runner's World and other publications; when he's not writing, he's usually biking, hiking, and running in the mountains around Los Angeles, where he lives.
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3.The Top 10 Shoes of Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring 20
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With Milan Men’s Fashion Week’s spring-summer ’23 season done and dusted, one trend stands above them all: There will be something for everyone next year. As fashion continues to find its footing (no pun intended) in a post-(and ongoing) pandemic world, it is individuality that seems to be defining fashion for all genders.
Milan’s spring ’23 men’s season continued to push the dress shoe over the once-ubiquitous fashion sneaker, though there is still room for the athletic staple in any collection. With any warm-weather season in the recent past, a slide sandal can be expected. Elsewhere
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Here, a closer look at the top 10 shoes of Milan Men’s Fashion Week’s spring ’23 season.
1. Prada’s Cuban heels with a Western edge
The Italian fashion brand is known to set the tone for both styling and individual product, and both made big statements for spring ’23 menswear. Prada continued to show the short short with a black leather shoe, this time opting for a black leather boot with a Cuban heel and a bit of a Western flair to fill out the silhouette, echoing a current women’s footwear trend that is fast gaining traction even as the height of hot summer weather approaches. And while street style denizens are keen on pairing their black dress shoes with white crew socks, Miuccia and Raf make it clear here: black socks only with this look.
Prada’s boots, paired with gingham for spring ’23. - Credit: Monica Feudi
Monica Feudi
A close up of the Prada Cuban heel boot for spring ’23. - Credit: Aitor Rosas Sun?e? for WWD
Aitor Rosas Sun?e? for WWD
2. Fendi’s puffy slides
For all of its experimentation with gender codes (the crop tops suits! the pearls! the Mary Janes!), Fendi also knows that everyone will want an easy slip-on shoe come summer. The brand has long offered one, but this time around, it took the simple sandal and puffed it up with its double F monogram for a shoe that is destined to be a haute poolside hit.
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Fendi’s puffy slides for spring ’23 - Credit: Paolo Fichera
Paolo Fichera
3. JW Anderson’s mega hardware loafers
The footwear that Jonathan Anderson designs for both his JW Anderson line and Loewe are runaway hits with the more nuanced fashion follower, particularly a slip-on mule with a distinctive oversized chain link detailing. Anderson kept the big hardware trend for spring ’23 with a series of slide loafers, done in primary hues with a singular slab of silver metal running across the top.
Hardware loafers at JW Anderson spring ’23. - Credit: Courtesy of JW Anderson
Courtesy of JW Anderson
Backstage at JW Anderson spring ’23 men’s. - Credit: Vanni Bassetti for WWD
Vanni Bassetti for WWD
4. 1017 Alyx 9SM’s Mono rubber boots
However the molded-rubber boot trend began, recent debuts prove that there is still more than enough room for experimentation with the silhouette and material. Matthew Williams may have teased a new Nike collab in the spring ’23 collection for his 1017 Alyx 9SM label, but the designer’s Mono boot (an update from the Mono slide) was inevitably more interesting.
Backstage at 1017 Alyx 9SM RTW SS 2023. - Credit: Vanni Bassetti for WWD
Vanni Bassetti for WWD
More rubber boots backstage. - Credit: Vanni Bassetti for WWD
Vanni Bassetti for WWD
5. Versace’s Greca slides
One keeps waiting for Versace’s Medusa platforms to cross over to the brand’s men’s runway. Until that day, there are these Greca flat slide sandals, the direct opposite of the platform in height but no less full of detailing, with its contrast stitching.
Versace’s slides for spring ’23 men’s. - Credit: MICHAEL MINELLI
MICHAEL MINELLI
6. Gucci’s Ha Ha Ha heart printed boots
Gucci’s new menswear collaboration between Harry Styles and creative director Alessandro Michele may not technically be part of the spring ’23 season, but its Milan debut included a standout pair of white leather dress boots accented with a singular red heart that is sure to cross many seasons as a collector’s item when it debuts in October.
Gucci’s heart printed white dress boots from the Ha Ha Ha collection in collaboration with creative director Alessandro Michele and Harry Styles. - Credit: Courtesy of Gucci
Courtesy of Gucci
7. Moschino’s trompe l’oeil rubber boots
Call it the Kanye West effect. Those gigantic Red Wing and Balenciaga boots are trickling back to the runways in more creative ways, including at Moschino spring summer ’23, where Jeremy Scott took his trompe l’oeil sketch motif (previously seen in women’s collections) to a pair of black leather knee boots with a workwear shape.
Backstage at Moschino spring ’23 men’s. - Credit: Vanni Bassetti for WWD
Vanni Bassetti for WWD
8. Santoni’s hardware loafers
Echoing the mega hardware of JW Anderson’s slides, Santoni introduced a classic loafer using a hardware plate that was also seen in its fall ’22 women’s collections (on a high heeled pump, no less). The gold tone plate offers the right amount of flash and dress to the classic shape.
Santoni’s new double buckle loafer with golden plate for spring 2023. - Credit: Courtesy of Santoni
Courtesy of Santoni
9. Etro’s all-purpose suede lace-ups
In a moment where the fashion sneaker is losing some of its ground but a dress shoe still feels a bit much IRL, there is a lot of room for an in-between casual lace-up shoe. Enter Etro’s lace-up, a Wallabee-style boot with a contrast welt stitching that makes it feel beachy even if it might be worn with a suit.
Etro spring ’23 men’s. - Credit: Giovanni Giannoni for WWD
Giovanni Giannoni for WWD
10. Brioni’s toe-ring sandals
In a season where the thong sandal made a few appearances — and bare feet were even a thing — Brioni’s toe-ring sandal offers a more elegant take on barely-there men’s footwear. Done in the simplest neutral leather, it’s an easy way to elevate the summer vacation wardrobe.
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